Where the Dinosaurs Are
OLD BONE ODORI:
(my dance with dinosaurs)
page 2
GLENCOE AND THE
PT
RENAISSANCE
As I said earlier, when Glencoe
reissued the ITC kits I didn't buy the Tyrannosaurus or Stegosaurus
immediately as I already had them and was reasonably satisfied with
them despite having been repaired many times over the years. In
1994 I saw an advertisement in
the bulletin of the Dinosaur Society
for a collector's newsletter called Prehistoric
Times. It sounded intriguing and I ordered a
subscription. The first issue I received was probably #5 and it
was so much fun that I immediately ordered all of the back
issues. Issue #2 had a picture on the last page of a
model that publisher Mike Fredericks put together. It was a Glencoe
Tyrannosaurus. In putting the model
together, Mike did something that really impressed me. Instead of
making it out of the box in the old-fashioned kangaroo stance, he
straightened the tail, drilled out the openings in the skull and cut
the leg joints to pose it like a poorman's Ants Allosaurus.

LAST PAGE FROM PREHISTORIC TIMES #2 1993
What
a great idea! I ran down to the hobby shop where I found the
Brontosaurus and to my
delight the Tyrannosarus was still on the shelf! I
decided to make it as scientifically
accurate as possible. I used Horner's book The Ultimate T-rex as a primary source
along with whatever else I could find to guide my modifications.
I
used
a
lot
of
what
I
had
learned
about
assembling
a
skeleton
from
the
Allosaurus,
which
led
me
to
do
a
lot
of
major surgery on that
plastic. Locating slots and tabs pretty much went the way of the
dinosaur as I separated and repositioned practically every single
piece. I cut the cervical vertebrae into individual pieces,
drilled a hole through each and strung them on a wire support, then
added scratch-built laminae and ribs. I cut the ribcage into
separate ribs and detailed their articulations with the spine.
The metatarsals were altered with epoxy to emphasize the pinched
bone in the center. The leg bones were cut apart and
repositioned with pins for extra support as was the tail. The
number of vertebrae in the tail was cut down as the original museum
mount on which the model was based had way too many of them.
After drilling out all of the openings in the skull, I made a palate
and carefully separated the teeth with a tiny saw before polishing them
with fine sandpaper. Having finally realized that dinosaur
skeletons are not bone white, I painted it to look more like a real
fossil. All in all, it took me over two months to get it the way
I wanted. Trying to get this model done "right" has been a
popular activity, at least among the small community of
kokkalophiles. On the Tyrannosaur page
elsewhere in this website is the happy Christmas tale of another ITC
rex. There is another, sadder story that I'll get to below in my
section on Steve Harvey and Wiccart.

ITC/GLENCOE TYRANNOSAURUS 1/25 17" (43 cm)
ORIGINAL SKULL AND NECK

REWORKED
SKULL
AND
NECK

ADDITIONAL RIB AND SPINE DETAIL
The Tyrannosaurus was not
enough. While I didn't modify it nearly as much as
the
Tyrannosaurus, I decided to give my Brontosaurus a makeover. I
altered the pose of its legs, used a Dremel to
improve the rib/spine articulations and thinned the cervical
ribs. I also painted it to look like a
fossil. A 1/35 scale explorer from a Tamiya diorama
kit joined it on the base. It turned out that the animal called
Brontosaurus in the 1950's, when the kit was made, was actually an
Apatosaurus and should have had a long Diplodicid type of skull.
The kit,
reflecting its era, had a blunt faced Camarasaurus-like skull. As
luck would
have it, the Dinosaur Studio offered a replacement resin skull for
slightly less than the price of the entire kit. I bought it,
drilled out the fenestrations and mounted it, giving me an
Apatosaurus. My Apatosaurus was a great example of serendipitous
timing. At that time the Tyrannosaurus kit was no
longer showing up in
local shops and I was now beginning to realize that opportunities may
be temporary and subject to disappearing if not grabbed. While
Tyrannosaurus
kits show up on Ebay from time to
time and the Glencoe Stegosaurus is still listed for sale by Squadron,
the Brontosaurus is rarely seen and that replacement skull is
no longer available. When I found a Glencoe
Stegosaurus at a local hobby shop, I bought it after only a moment's
hesitation.
While I already had my brother's old Stegosaurus, I was now certain
that, as with the other models in the series, I could
do a better job of it now. When I bought it, I planned
to make it a
more accurate reflection of current
thinking in limb and tail positions as well as plate and spike
placement. It took me over a decade to get around to it, but I
finally took it out of the the closet and the result is featured on
page 5 of this website. I
have other plans for the old one; I just need
time...

ITC/GLENCOE BRONTOSAURUS WITH APATOSAURUS SKULL
1/35
21" (53 cm)
The original
ITC/Glencoe Kit skull
KAIYODO-ED
OVIRAPTOR
1/2 4.25" (11 cm)

HERRERASAURUS 1/1 12" (30cm)


STYRACOSAURUS 1/10 8" HORN TO
BEAK (21 cm)
PLATECARPUS
1/4
7" (18 cm)

DEINONYCHUS
1/3
SKULL
3.75"
(9
cm)


RHAMPHORHYNCUS 1/1 3.25"
(9.5 cm)
I finally assembled and painted this
little kit. For a bit more on its history and what finally
allowed me to overcome a mental stumbling block to working on it, see
my section on Oz and Echoes on Page 4. This model was very tough to assemble. The
pieces were tiny and fragile. The tip of the lower jaw snapped
off several times. The palate required a lot of coaxing to fit
inside the skull. The hardest part was the teeth. I
carefully inserted them using their sockets as a guide to proper
positioning, but then the jaw couldn't close. I was tempted
to leave them that way, but the desire to get it right won out and I
had to play oral surgeon, carefully extracting all of the teeth in the
mandible. After having planted them with superglue and kicker,
that was not an easy job. Many of the sockets had to be redrilled
to allow the teeth to point in a slightly different orientation and the
teeth themselves needed a fair amount of sanding and smoothing to allow
them to slide past each other, sort of the way a boar's teeth
mesh. After each tooth was placed, proper jaw motion had to be
verified. It felt like assembling a rosebush and I consider it
almost a miracle that I didn't impale myself, break any of the teeth or
glue my fingers to the dentition. Mounting the scleral rings was
another challenge as there was no simple way to attach them. The
instructions suggested drilling a hole to attach a wire to each of them
and then finding a discrete place inside the skull to attach the
wire. Right. Rather than taking a chance on drilling into
something that was paper thin, I formed a loop in some thin wire,
dipped it in sugerglue and attached it to the back of the ring. I
ended up drilling a very tiny hole through the back of the skull on
each side, threading the wire into it from the inside and then dripping
glue onto the tip of the wire as it exited the back of the
cranium. That held the ring very nicely and allowed me to play
with the positioning of the rings until I was happy without worrying
too much that they would fall off and be impossible to reattach.
Whew!
For another really nice build-up of this kit, check out the links to
Brant Bassam's Brantworks on Page 4! In an interesting
development, Brant has acquired a complete Rhamphorhynchus skeleton
kit. His website features the instructions for it and it is a
monster. Apparently the quality of the casting in the early
Wiccart kits was pretty marginal and assembly involved attaching the
phenomenal number of tiny, fragile parts to each other with wire after
drilling appropriate holes in the fragile resin. It looks like a
daunting task and had I actually purchased the kit, it would almost
certainly still be in my closet awaiting inspriation, time and a much
younger pair of eyes. Yikes!